Malibu. Huntington Beach. The Wedge in Newport Beach. Encinitas. Trestles near San Clemente.
It was not a difficult assignment for Chris Ray to name his favorite Southern California surfing spots. It was a joy asking someone so passionate about his favorite sport.
A seasoned big wave surfer, Ray epitomizes the enduring pursuit of passion and the relentless chase of dreams regardless of age. And for the 43-year-old Ray, age is just a number.
“My view of surfing has changed significantly as one gains more experience,” he said. “When starting out, there’s often a focus on excitement and the learning process. As you progress, you begin to appreciate the invaluable lessons learned from failures and mistakes. It becomes more about the journey, learning from each setback, evolving, and advancing from those experiences.
“Over time, this accumulation of experiences shapes a deeper understanding and appreciation for the sport, emphasizing the value of perseverance, resilience, and continual growth.”
A So Cal native, Ray initially engrained himself in the vibrant surf and skate culture that permeated Garden Grove, a suburb 12 miles from Huntington Beach. In the period between the mid-80s and mid-90s, the pulsating core of those specific cultures in Orange County left an indelible mark on Ray.
He feels it profoundly influenced his journey into surfing in particular. One distinct memory stands out.
“In 1991, flipping through my very first surf magazine, an electric sense of connection surged through me,” he recalled. “It was an instant and defining moment. I recall telling myself, ‘This is it. I want to be part of this world.’ That initial encounter ignited my passion for surfing, marking the beginning of a lifelong dedication to surfing and the vibrant culture that captured my heart during my formative years.”
He dedicated himself to riding big waves, defying the conventional norms, and displaying that passion knows no bounds or expiration dates. Ray has learned the work in the water is as much a mental battle as anything.
“Surfing is impacted profoundly by the mental aspect of the sport. The fear of the water and the immense power of the ocean can be daunting for many individuals. In my perspective, surfing ranks among the most challenging sports due to the multitude of elements one contends with, including fear, particularly for those unfamiliar with the ocean.
“While surfing demands physical strength and endurance,” Ray continued, “the mental component is equally crucial; without mental fortitude, it’s easy to falter. Personally, I’ve grappled with mental challenges, especially when navigating waves exceeding 20 feet in height.”
Ray has worked as a researcher in studying fear and its impact on human performance, particularly in extreme situations. With his unique perspective as both a big wave surfer and a scholar, he provides invaluable insights into conquering fear, managing adrenaline, and harnessing the power of the mind in high stress scenarios.
Despite societal expectations about age and pursuits, Ray remains resolute in his quest, fearlessly taking on towering swells that would make most surfers think twice.
He also has taken to modern technology to document his journey. Three years ago, he launched “Better L8 Then Never” to document Big Wave surfing on his newly launched YouTube channel. His goal was to share those daily escapades from sunrise swells to sunset serenity.
Ray said it was a no-brainer, and the footage provides a front-row seat to his adventures in the sea on a variety of surfboards ranging from a short board to a big wave board “Big Gun.”
“Utilizing YouTube as a platform has been an invaluable tool for me to engage with an audience and foster a vibrant community. Personally, I find YouTube to be more compelling than other social platforms due to its unique features and expansive reach. As the second-largest search engine globally, YouTube provides unparalleled access to a broad audience, amplifying the visibility of my brand and the content I create.”
As for the online haters, Ray quickly dismisses the comments: “Any criticism serves as motivation, adding fuel to my determination.”
Amidst the upheaval of the COVID-19 era, Ray said he found himself contemplating life and uncovering his true passions. During an extended stay in Tahiti, he took the opportunity to push the boundaries of his capabilities in an incredibly demanding environment surfing the world-famous wave “Teahupoo.”
This desire was driven by his personal quest to prove to himself he was capable. Surrounding himself with top big wave surfers also became integral to his pursuit, and he sought guidance and collaboration with organizations like B.W.R.A.G. (Big Wave Risk Assessment Group), Apnea Surf, and Apex Peak Performance Coaching.
“Since 2020, I’ve committed myself entirely to this pursuit, diving headfirst into the world of big wave surfing.”
Most importantly, it is never too late to start.
“I believe dreams are timeless and attainable at any stage of life. As part of my actions and perseverance, I aim to ignite a fire in others while encouraging them to follow their passions fervently, while also fostering a community where age is but a number in the pursuit of one's dreams
“Age is just a number. It’s better to try than to never do it at all.”
Plus, this is the ideal place to do it.
“The landscape in Southern California is characterized by a blend of diverse breaks and waves, with a vibrant surf culture and core localism that celebrates the sport’s heritage. Surrounded by a backdrop of palm-fringed shores, sunny weather, and a plethora of surf shops and beachside cafes, the our region remains a Mecca for surfers seeking the perfect wave and the quintessential Southern California surfing experience.”
